How to choose the right eyewear factory for private-label brands?

How to choose the right eyewear factory for private-label brands?

Below are 7 specific, buyer-focused long-tail questions frequently asked by new private-label eyewear brands but often poorly answered online. Each Q&A gives practical, factory-level actions, test names and audit checkpoints you can use during supplier selection and production.

1) How can I independently verify a factory's bio-acetate or eco material claims?

Why it matters: Many factories market bio, biobased or bio-acetate frames. Without verification, you risk product recalls, marketplace delisting or greenwashing accusations.

What to do:

• Request the raw material chain: supplier invoices, COA (Certificate of Analysis) from the acetate supplier and the delivery lot numbers. Genuine bio-acetate suppliers provide batch COAs showing feedstock and production dates.
• Ask for third-party testing: ASTM D6866 measures biobased carbon content (radiocarbon method). Specify an independent lab test of the finished frame or blank. If a factory refuses, treat claims skeptically.
• Check for relevant compliance statements: REACH SVHC screening (ECHA registry) and any phthalate or heavy metal analytical results for the lot.
• Inspect the traceability paper trail during a factory audit: ask to see delivery manifests from the raw-material supplier and chain-of-custody documents.

Acceptance criteria: A verified COA and an ASTM D6866 lab report (or equivalent) for the batch; REACH/SVHC screening for hazardous substances; vendor contact info that matches the COA.

2) What is a realistic landed unit-cost breakdown for small private-label runs (frame only) including tooling, coatings, QA and shipping?

Why it matters: Many buyers quote factory unit price only and are surprised by real landed costs once tooling, testing, coatings, and logistics are added.

How to calculate (practical method): Landed unit cost = (Unit factory price) + (Allocated tooling amortization per unit) + (Coatings & treatments per unit) + (QA/pre-shipment inspection per unit) + (Packaging per unit) + (Inbound logistics + duties per unit).

What to include and how to allocate:

• Tooling amortization — divide total tooling cost by expected run quantity. Use conservative run-size expectations (e.g., if tooling is $3,000 and expected run is 1,000 units, amortization = $3.00/unit).
• Coatings/treatments — specify AR/hydrophobic or multi-layer plating trials; request vendor pricing for production coating vs sample trial coatings.
• QA/testing — factor in initial sample testing (lab fees), in-line QC labor, and one pre-shipment inspection (third-party inspector fee). Add costs for mandatory lab tests (e.g., nickel release, UV/visible tests) where relevant.
• Logistics and duties — calculate FOB price, then freight, insurance, customs duty and inland distribution. Use freight forwarder quotes for accuracy.

Example (structured, not a quote): If unit factory price is $10, tooling amortization $3, coatings $1.50, QA $0.80, packaging $0.50 and freight/duties $1.20, landed cost ≈ $17.00/unit. Adjust values to your product complexity and destination country.

Actionable tip: Ask factories to break down costs the way above and supply separate line items for tooling, coatings and testing so you can model break-even and reorder thresholds.

3) How do I design a spec and sample approval workflow that prevents fit and functional failures after mass production?

Why it matters: Most early failures happen because critical tolerances and fit attributes are not locked into the tech pack or validated on pre-production samples.

Minimum process you should enforce:

1. Tech pack: 2D drawings, exploded views, materials list, Pantone/reference color codes, weights, thicknesses, hinge model with torque spec, temple length, lens height/width, pantoscopic tilt, and absolute tolerances (e.g., ±0.5 mm for frame width).
2. 3D CAD & die-line: Request CAD files or at least a die-line for lens cutting. For complex shapes ask for STEP/IGES files to validate lens fitting.
3. Proto sample: 3D-printed or machined prototype for fit checks, then acetate or metal sample for look & finish verification.
4. First Article Inspection (FAI): A signed form comparing the approved sample to the production batch sample with dimensional measurements and photos.
5. Pilot production: Small pilot run (100–300 pcs depending on complexity) for QA testing and packaging validation before full run.
6. PPAP-like sign-off: Buyer approval required on FAI & pilot results before production release.

KPIs: Define acceptable dimensional variance (e.g., ±0.5 mm), hinge torque ranges, and acceptable cosmetic defect rates (see AQL guidance below).

4) Which QC tests should I require before shipment to catch plating, hinge and lens-coating failures?

Why it matters: Surface finishes and hinges are common failure points that damage brand reputation; many marketplaces and labs will reject products lacking test records.

Essential tests to include in your specification (request lab reports where applicable):

• Salt spray / corrosion test (ASTM B117) — tests plating resistance to corrosion.
• Hinge cycle life test — measure number of open/close cycles to failure. Specify cycles (e.g., 5,000–10,000) based on market positioning.
• Adhesion and abrasion tests for coatings — cross-cut adhesion test and Taber abrasion or equivalent for AR/hard coat durability.
• Nickel release test (EN 1811 or equivalent) — for metal parts in prolonged skin contact.
• Impact test for lenses and frames — for sunglasses reference ISO/EN standards (e.g., ISO 12312 family for sunglasses) or local safety standards for impact resistance.
• Visual cosmetic inspection and AQL sampling — specify AQL level (common consumer AQL: 2.5/4.0). For critical cosmetic surfaces, consider a tighter AQL.

Operational advice: Contractually require periodic lab testing (e.g., annual) plus test reports for each new plating batch or significant process change. Use a recognized third-party lab for chemistry and corrosion tests.

5) How can I negotiate MOQs and avoid excess dead stock when factories want high single-SKU minimums?

Why it matters: High MOQs tie up cash, inventory and slow iteration speed for private-label brands.

Practical levers to reduce MOQ risk:

• Combine SKUs: Negotiate a minimum total quantity across multiple colors/size SKUs rather than per-SKU minima.
• Pay higher per-unit price for smaller MOQ for the first order (pilot pricing) to offset factory setup.
• Negotiate shared tooling or ‘‘colorway’’ tooling that reduces per-design tooling cost.
• Agree on rolling orders: smaller initial order followed by scheduled replenishment at agreed future quantities and lead times.
• Use a local or regional partner to hold a small buffer stock on consignment at your cost-sharing agreement.
• Consider working with multiple factories: one for low-volume bespoke ranges (higher per-unit cost), another for larger runs.

Contract clause to include: a clear reorder schedule, price tiers based on production quantity and a buy-back or credit arrangement for unsold but saleable returns within a limited time window.

6) Which certifications and social/environmental audits should I require to sell safely in EU/US and to partner optical labs?

Why it matters: Marketplaces and B2B optical partners require documented compliance; some buyers will not consider factories without social audits.

Priority compliance & audit checklist:

• Quality systems: ISO 9001 certification is a baseline for production quality management.
• Product standards: Sunglasses—ISO 12312 (sunglasses and related eyewear). Spectacle frames—ISO 12870 (frames: requirements and tests). Check regional equivalents and the lab tests required for your market.
• Chemical compliance: REACH SVHC screening and records of nickel release (EN 1811) for metals that touch skin.
• Social audits: Sedex/SMETA, BSCI (amfori), SA8000 or WRAP depending on buyer requirements; these indicate labor and social compliance.
• Environmental management: ISO 14001 or documented environmental controls can be required by eco-conscious brands or European customers.

Actionable step: Require copies of certificates and recent audit reports; if the factory cannot provide them, plan for a third-party audit (Sedex/SMETA) paid by buyer or split costs.

7) How do I protect my designs, tooling and IP when the factory also makes frames for other brands?

Why it matters: Factories may reproduce successful designs for other buyers or for direct-to-consumer sales, eroding your exclusivity.

IP protection measures you can implement:

• Legal contracts: NDA + detailed supply agreement that specifies IP ownership (designs, molds) and includes penalties for unauthorized reproduction.
• Register design rights in priority markets: registered design or copyright where applicable provides stronger enforcement leverage than contract alone.
• Control tooling custody: negotiate that tooling is stored under your control, or require serialized tooling plates and log access.
• Split production steps: keep critical finishing or final assembly at a separate facility (e.g., in-country final assembly), making full reproduction harder.
• Use trusted factories with reputations and social audits; they are less likely to risk reputation by cloning customers’ designs.

Practical warning: Local enforcement may be slow or inconsistent. A combination of contracts, registered IP and careful partner selection is the most effective approach.

Quick operational checklist for factory selection (one-page)

• Ask for: ISO 9001, recent BSCI/Sedex/SMETA report, sample test reports (ASTM B117, EN 1811, AR adhesion), tooling cost breakdown and MOQ matrix.
• Audit focus: raw-material traceability for acetate/metal, plating lines and lab equipment, QC logs and AQL records, sample room and pilot-run evidence.
• Pre-shipment: insist on third-party PSI (pre-shipment inspection) and lab certification for initial batches and for any process change.
• KPI goals: AQL 2.5/4.0 for consumer lines; target returns <1% for established SKUs; tolerance band ±0.5 mm for critical dimensions unless otherwise specified.

Conclusion — Why KARUSON is a strong partner for private-label brands

KARUSON combines in-house frame prototyping, dedicated plating and coating labs, and a documented QA program aligned with ISO quality practices. We provide transparent tooling cost breakdowns, support ASTM/ISO test coordination with accredited labs, and offer flexible MOQ and pilot-run options to help newer brands validate their products without overstock risk. KARUSON also maintains social compliance documentation and supports design-IP clauses and tooling custody arrangements to protect private-label partners throughout the lifecycle.

References and sources (selected)

• ASTM International — Standard Test Method for Salt Spray (Fog) Testing: ASTM B117. Accessed 2024-06-15.
• ASTM International — Standard Test Method for Determination of the Biobased Content of Solid, Liquid, and Gaseous Samples Using Radiocarbon Analysis: ASTM D6866. Accessed 2024-06-15.
• European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) — REACH and SVHC information. Accessed 2024-06-15.
• ISO — standards and guidance for eyewear (searchable entries including ISO 12312 for sunglasses and ISO 12870 for spectacle frames). Accessed 2024-06-15.
• Sedex & SMETA — supplier social auditing frameworks. Accessed 2024-06-15.
• ISO — ISO 9001: Quality management systems — Requirements. Accessed 2024-06-15.
• Third-party inspection and lab services: SGS, Bureau Veritas (inspection and testing services for consumer goods). Accessed 2024-06-15.

For hands-on sourcing, KARUSON can share a tech-pack checklist, a sample PPAP/FAI template and a supplier audit checklist used by our procurement team. Contact KARUSON to arrange factory tours, witness testing or to request an MOQ-flexible pilot quote.